How to Specify Hoodie GSM and Fleece for Custom Production
To specify hoodie fabric for custom production, define the intended use before selecting a GSM target. GSM means grams per square meter: it measures fabric mass per unit area, not overall quality, warmth, or durability by itself. A useful purchase specification combines a finished fabric weight range with fiber composition, knit construction, inside finish, shrinkage limits, hand feel, opacity, and compatible rib. Compare samples after washing as well as before washing, and record the approved result in a technical pack. For this factory buying program, MOQ is 100 pcs, samples take approximately 7 days once the brief and materials are confirmed, and bulk timing depends on quantity.
At a glance
Swipe the table sideways to compare both columns →
| Decision | What to specify | What to verify on sample |
|---|---|---|
| Finished fabric weight | Target GSM and agreed tolerance for finished body fabric, with the measurement condition recorded. | Measured weight against the target, plus drape and garment weight in the reference size. |
| Fleece or French terry | Knit construction, fiber composition, and whether the inside is loopback, lightly brushed, or densely brushed. | Interior structure, bulk, surface shedding, and comfort after the agreed wash procedure. |
| Shrinkage and shape retention | Maximum length and width shrinkage, wash and dry method, cycle count, and measurement points. | Before-and-after dimensions, twisting, seam appearance, and recovery after drying. |
| Hand feel and opacity | Reference swatch, desired firmness or softness, intended colors, and coverage expectations. | Touch, drape, light transmission, and show-through under consistent lighting and stretch. |
| Body and rib compatibility | Rib composition, construction, weight, stretch recovery, dimensions, and shade relationship to the body. | Cuff recovery, hem tension, shade matching, and differential shrinkage after washing. |
1. Set a GSM range around the intended hoodie
Start with the garment's intended climate, silhouette, and use rather than asking for the heaviest fabric available. As practical sourcing bands, approximately 240-300 GSM can suit lighter layering hoodies, 300-380 GSM often supports everyday midweight styles, and 380-500 GSM can suit heavier, more structured designs. Fabrics above 500 GSM are available for specialist heavyweight products, but they need careful evaluation for comfort, seam bulk, and drying behavior. These bands are buying guides, not universal categories. Fiber blend, yarn, knit density, and finishing can make two fabrics at the same GSM feel substantially different, so attach a reference swatch or describe the required drape.
Write the target as finished body fabric GSM with an agreed tolerance, rather than leaving the supplier to interpret whether the number applies before dyeing or finishing. For example, a buyer might request 400 GSM with a proposed tolerance of plus or minus 5 percent, subject to factory confirmation and the performance of the chosen material. Specify how samples will be conditioned and measured so results are comparable. Also distinguish fabric GSM from total garment weight: a larger hoodie, double-layer hood, or larger pocket increases garment mass without changing the fabric specification. Confirm both the material target and the reference garment size before approving cost.
2. Choose fleece, French terry, and the inside finish
French terry generally has visible loops on the reverse, while sweatshirt fleece commonly has an interior that is brushed to raise fibers into a softer, loftier surface. Supplier naming can vary, so do not rely on the word fleece alone. Request close-up photographs and a physical swatch showing the face and reverse, then record the knit construction and finishing route in the material specification. French terry is often selected for a loopback feel and less fuzzy interior; brushed fleece is often selected for a cozy touch. Neither choice guarantees a particular thermal performance, since weight, thickness, air permeability, and garment fit all contribute.
For brushed-back fleece, specify the desired brushing level and use an approved swatch to communicate loft, smoothness, and firmness. A heavily raised interior can feel appealing at first touch but still require checks for loose fibers, flattening, and changes after laundering. Ask the factory to identify the body fabric composition and, where relevant, the composition of different yarn systems rather than relying only on a broad blend description. Review the intended garment color because dyeing and finishing can influence the final hand. If softness depends on a finishing treatment, evaluate whether the acceptable feel remains after the agreed wash cycles instead of approving only an unwashed sample.
3. Verify shrinkage, hand feel, and opacity together
Agree on a wash and dry procedure that matches the intended care label before assessing shrinkage. Measure and record garment length, chest width, sleeve length, cuff opening, and other critical points before washing, then repeat the measurements after the specified drying and conditioning period. Calculate length and width changes separately; a single average can hide a fit problem. Set acceptable limits in writing based on the product's requirements and the material's demonstrated behavior. Also inspect twisting, seam puckering, hood distortion, and changes in pocket shape. A pre-shrunk description is not a substitute for measured results, and pattern compensation should be based on verified data.
Assess hand feel and opacity using repeatable comparisons rather than broad terms such as premium or luxury. Describe whether the buyer wants a dry, compact, springy, soft, or fluid feel, and retain the approved swatch as the reference. Check opacity in the actual intended colors under consistent lighting, both relaxed and with gentle stretch representative of wear. A light-colored heavy fabric may still show contrast underneath, while a darker lighter fabric can appear more opaque. Review fabric before and after washing because finishing changes can affect both surface feel and coverage. For printed or embroidered products, check a decorated sample for stiffness, distortion, and compatibility with the chosen fabric.
4. Match body fabric and rib before bulk approval
Treat cuffs and hem rib as separate engineered materials that must work with the hoodie body, not as an automatic accessory selected by color alone. Specify rib composition, construction, finished dimensions, desired firmness, and stretch recovery. Rib does not need the same GSM as the body to be suitable; its job is to control openings and recover without excessive tightening or bagging. Compare body and rib shades under consistent lighting, including after washing, because different structures and blends may take dye differently. On the sewn sample, inspect whether the hem pulls the body inward too strongly or the cuffs become loose after repeated stretching.
Before releasing bulk production, consolidate the approved body fabric, rib, finish, wash results, measurements, and shade references into one controlled specification. List which changes require buyer approval, including yarn blend substitutions, alternative brushing, and replacement rib. For this production program, MOQ is 100 pcs; confirm whether the proposed colors, sizes, and fabric selection can be accommodated within that order. Samples take approximately 7 days once the brief and materials are confirmed, while bulk timing depends on quantity. Allow for review and any necessary sample revisions rather than assuming the first sample starts the bulk schedule. Retain approved references and agree on bulk inspection checks before production begins.
Send these details together
- State finished body fabric GSM, an agreed tolerance, fiber composition, intended colors, and a reference size; do not use GSM as the only quality requirement.
- Identify French terry or fleece construction and specify loopback or brushing details with a physical reference that shows the required interior texture.
- Define wash and dry conditions, cycle count, measurement points, and acceptable length and width shrinkage before the sample is evaluated.
- Approve hand feel, opacity, body-to-rib shade matching, rib recovery, and decorated areas on the actual garment, including checks after washing.
- Confirm the 100 pcs MOQ, approximately 7-day sampling after brief and materials confirmation, quantity-dependent bulk timing, and written approval rules for material substitutions.
This BuyingResource is an informational guide for B2B buyers specifying custom hoodie fabrics and sample acceptance criteria. GSM bands are illustrative sourcing ranges, not quality grades or promises of performance. No certification or independently verified test result is claimed. Reprint permission is granted with attribution to hoodiemanufacturerchina.com and sales@hoodiemanufacturerchina.com.
Prepare a quote briefThe RFQ form prepares a WhatsApp message for you to review. For files, email sales@hoodiemanufacturerchina.com.
Questions before sampling
What GSM should I specify for a custom hoodie?
Choose a range around the intended climate, fit, and wearing experience. Approximately 240-300 GSM can suit lighter layering, 300-380 GSM is a practical starting point for everyday midweight styles, and 380-500 GSM can suit heavier silhouettes. These ranges overlap in real use. Request sample fabrics at nearby weights and compare drape, bulk, opacity, and washed performance. A higher GSM is not automatically better, and the final specification should include composition, construction, finish, and an agreed weight tolerance.
Is brushed fleece better than French terry for hoodies?
Neither material is universally better. Brushed fleece is often chosen for a soft, raised interior, while French terry is often chosen for its visible reverse loops and less fuzzy touch. The correct option depends on the intended season, interior feel, silhouette, and care expectations. Compare physical samples at similar weights where possible, and review them after washing. Ask the supplier to identify the construction and finish explicitly because commercial fabric names alone may not describe the material precisely.
How do I request samples and move from GSM selection to bulk production?
Send the factory your target GSM range, composition preference, fleece or French terry choice, colors, size specification, rib requirements, and any decoration artwork. Include a reference swatch if available and define the wash checks needed for approval. MOQ is 100 pcs, and samples take approximately 7 days once the brief and materials are confirmed. Bulk timing depends on quantity. Approve the sewn sample and document material, measurement, and wash requirements before authorizing bulk production or accepting substitutions.
What are your MOQ, sample time and bulk lead time?
MOQ is 100 pcs. Samples take 7 days. Bulk production lead time depends on order quantity.